Undead SAGA Warband episode #6 “Skeletal Giant”

Pretty intimidating to see this guy coming at you

So just a quick post up of more “UnDead” that should have gone up long ago but just been busy and posting is way down the list of important things in life…. trying to get in more post means less writing and just slapping up the pictures!

I absolutely love the sculpt and especially the weapons on this guy! Also the “repairs” to the bones from past battle damage.

I did this guy last year and he’s figured in a few battles. Very imposing at about 7+ inches considering regular 28mm is a bit over 1 inch! He’s a REAPER figure, the metal version, and was a joy to build, convert, and paint! In SAGA he’s a hard hitter being a 14/0 armor 4 or 12/0 armor 5 depending on how you run him.

It’s a big heavy figure and I took time to drill and brass pin all the joints. Legs, arms, and torso, joints were also epoxied with 2 part JB Weld as even quality super glue would not be up to the task! The JB KwikWeld is also very good at filling in gap and can be carved before full curing and sanded at full cure.

I used a semi-gloss coating on this figure just like the rest of the UnDead warband as it gives a bit more kick, deeper colors, and just looks great to me.

Worked on a few techniques that I do not normally do on historical figures, aged bronze blade, cats eye star sapphire jewel, and a Jade handle.

I love how the modified pose came out, much more dynamic and taller than the original hunched over pose the stock model has. This required cutting, bending, repositioning, and pinning of legs, torso, arms, hands/weapons, and his head.

I liked this figure so much I bought a second version, slightly different and made from that weird plastic and sold under the “Bones” division of REAPER miniatures as well as a second identical figure to this one. Both currently in the “lead pile” for future projects.

Detail on this REAPER figure is just right, not to little nor to much like many over done Games Workshop models.

This guy is always ready to”lend a hand” on the battlefield! He carries one on his belt just in case…..

A small amount of the tattered cloth hanging on him was painted with the same “red” found to some degree on all figures in the warband to tie them all together.

Riddle of the Sphinx

Being a guy who couldn’t cook to save his life and likely to starve with out my good wife watching over me you can imagine my wife and daughters surprise several years ago when they caught me watching the “Great British Baking Show”! I found the show fun to watch, interesting to see how these baked works of art were created, and frankly I could listen to the dictionary being read to me if it was done with an English accent! Little did I know that what I would learn watching this show would help me in the wargaming world….I make a lot of terrain and while making a damaged “Sphinx” model for a friend I thought about what a pain it was to spread out filler on the base while creating the underlay for the drifting sand. I use “Durham’s Rock-Hard” wood putty quite a bit and it can be messy and a bit troublesome when trying to apply in a controlled manner quickly. It spreads easy when very thin, gets into cracks, but wont hold shape well or stay put. When its thicker it is hard to spread out evenly, retains brush marks and starts to set up.I spent a few days on other projects, always though in the back of my mind thinking on a new way to apply the filler. Then bingo I thought back to the baking show and how they used “icing cones” when decorating cakes, would it work with wood putty?

A quick trip to the market and I had a dozen plastic “icing cones” for $6 US. Mixed up a fist size batch of filler, scooped it into the icing bag, rolled and clipped the bag end closed, cut the other end off creating about a ¼ inch hole, and I was ready to go.

To apply it you simply point the open tip where you want filler and squeeze the bag! Wow, just like a tube of toothpaste, it worked better than I had hoped for.

  • Varying consistency of the mix, thicker or thinner, helps in control and flow.
  • Roll from the “fill” end pushing material towards the tip. Like a tube of toothpaste!
  • Small clips are useful to close each end.
  • A few soft flat brushes and water can help in moving or smoothing out applied filler.
  • A small amount of PVA wood glue added to the mix makes the putty even harder!
  • Bags are reusable when cleaned out quickly.Who would have thought that watching “the Great British Baking Show” would make one a better painter… just goes to show you never know where that next “cool trick” will come from!

Bill Witthans

 

The second-best lamp for painting miniatures

My Workbench about 5 years ago, not bad, looking well used! My old lamps were hot, didn’t have the best output, and never quite reached or stayed where I wanted them.

Over the last couple of years I have been upping my game as far as workbench/workspace when it comes to miniatures painting. Well, this weekend I bought and added the second-best miniature “painting lamp” to my work bench setup! It’s made by BYBLIGHT and is easily the second-best painting light I’ve ever owned!

  • Touch control, no switches to have to twist and go bad. Memory remembers your settings from use to use!
  • 6 level, touch dimmer control
  • Color temperature selection, 3200k, 4200k, 5200k, and 6200k, paint under the right light!
  • Very nice diffused light with changeable diffusion panel.
  • LED’S with 50,000 hours life expectancy with no Flicker of UV on all levels.
  • Low power consumption and generates low heat.
  • Well built arms that get to where you want them and stay there. Fully adjustable lamp head.

Well made, well packed, and well worth it!

Tools, replacement rubber grommets, clamp, cleaning pad, and instructions, wow!

Add to this the great design and look of this lamp along with great quality in manufacturing makes this lamp a winner! Its not cheap at around $90 bucks but taking into consideration that I’ve gone through 2-3 of the cheaper typical one bulb desk lamps over the years and this one looks to last much longer, it’s not bad! When you add all the above features in and paint with it a few times you wish these would have been around years ago! They also come with a high quality clamp for attaching to a desk, a wrench for tightening loose parts, a cleaning cloth, and a nice bag to keep it all in. There are a few “knock offs” of this lamp, cheaper but not as good! I got one on sale at $86 during the “pandemic” but $96 with free shipping is the best I can find now.

Buy it here;  https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Architect-Eye-care-Drafting-Dimmable/dp/B00V9YW41O

Even the packaging is well done and shows some pride in manufacturing, rare today!

Miniature painting and wargaming is a visual hobby and your eyes are an indispensable tool! We often think about, figures, paints, brushes, and other things more than these most important of all resources! Treat them with care, you only get two, one time, and they have to last a life time. Some of us are getting older and it becomes even more important to have the proper type of light and enough of it!

You may be wondering why it’s “the second-best miniature “painting lamp” and not the first?” well simply because its the second one of these lamps I’ve purchased! The first one was such a joy and for me “the best miniature painting lamp” this one could only be the second!

Yep, a second lamp! Everyone knows that two lamps are better than one!”

I originally made the move to this second lamp as the old desk lamp was failing and rather than spending $45 replacing it I upgraded. I was about to toss the old lamp out when I got a twinge of recycle-ability and thought I take a stab at repair first. Well I now have a new (old lamp) lamp on my “spray station” cart!

Roll around airbrush / spray can station I built years ago. Hose at rear plugs into shop compressor.

Undead SAGA Warband episode #5 “Mindless”

Well just like the Star Wars franchise, the story of my undead or as it started the “secret” warband doesn’t appear in the exact order it was made in, or posted in. The reasons for this are many, my mood, time to write verse time to paint, time to take pictures, and other things all factor in to when I do a post.

DOUBLE CLICK pictures for a bigger picture!

I did these fast and used all the tricks I know to cut corners while still having them look good and match the rest of the Warband. Painted all at once I think they came out pretty well for a “mass o figures”

This episode #5 “the Mindless” has figures that are painted sort of far into the project and figures I was frankly not that interested in painting as I thought they would be simple and uninteresting. Heck how interesting is the paint job on a mass of putrid, rotting, flesh going to be? I thought they certainly wouldn’t stand out on the battlefield like the Skeletal Giant” or a group of charging mounted Un-Dead Knights, and I was right they don’t. I approached this build and paint with an attitude of “let’s get this over with”

Mantic has both Ghouls and Zombie sets and I figured this would allow quite a bit of body part/head swapping to create even more variations. Also being plastic a good deal of figure modification was possible (sharpen up the xacto knife!)

I had chosen to use the Mantic Games “Zombie and Ghoul” figures that appear in the SAGA age of Magic book as part of the “Undead Warband”. I looked at lots of other manufactures, many with great looking figures but soon realized that most manufactures had a very limited range of poses when it came to the look/style required to fit into my warband. I kept coming back to the Mantic line since I liked the very dynamic style and look. Their range while still a bit limited but by being plastic “parts” offered more possible variations than the others. As I have said in the past “Plastic figures have grown on me”, yep from hating them to almost loving them sometimes! Mantic Games offered a combo deal on these figures at the time so with a few extra sprues from ebay I was set to create my 24 Mindless!

Primed and ready for paint. I usually use a black primer Krylon spray can primer for metals but for plastics my new “goto” is Alclad black primer with micro filler. It works very well but must be applied with an airbrush.

With all of my paint jobs I spend some time thinking about the look I want as well as WHY that look, and why that look works. Last, I decide how to paint them, style, fast, slow, detailed, blending, washes, etc.… although often all this will change as the build/ paint progresses.

A lot of Ghoul and Zombie figures have clothing or weapons that “date” them or tie them to a theme, the MANTIC figures a generic enough to allow them to serve almost anywhere.

Their flesh is is always in a constant state of deterioration or restoration so my color palette reflected this. I went from near living flesh down to a grey/green rotting look. I loved the exposed bone on many figures and the anguished looks!

The advantage of plastics is invaluable when doing conversions! This pose would be impossible in metal. The figure was originally a squat pose but by cutting, bending, and use of certain arm combination, creates this dynamic leaping figure.

The first thing I noticed when I began to cut the pieces off the sprues and assemble them was that the majority of the figures are bent over in squat, crouching positions, to much so for me, but the trusty Xacto knife, some glue, and a bit of putty soon had them looking a bit more threatening! About this time I realized I was actually enjoying this build and growing to like the figures more and more. The plastic is high quality and easy to work with, flash was very minimal, although mold lines were pretty bad. I figured that the look and the way I was going to paint these guys would hide a lot of them. Building them was fun and I think I got some great poses often swapping pieces from both figure types.

Mold lines like you see on the flesh colored figure at center right were common. I removed some but left many as you don’t really notice them in a group. The sword through the belly was created by me with help from the “bit’s box”

Another favorite pose with a meat cleaver, the camp cook! Clothes were intentionally left drab and nondescript to avoid drawing your eye from the rest of the figure.

Now on to painting. This is where that “why that look” comes into the process in figuring out what “that look” will be. In my mind (a very dusty, cramped, and often dangerous place to roam) Zombies and Ghouls are powered by a dark evil force back into the world of the living, but that initial force can only restore and sustain them for so long. The creatures need to consume the living to continue on and grow stronger, just like a vampire needs fresh blood from the living, Zombies and Ghouls need flesh and brains. So, this governed my thinking when painting them. Individual figures would be built and painted to reflect their current state of re-animation so to speak, some would be just re-animated, in bad shape and wildly looking for more flesh while some of them would be “better” looking more fleshed out and human looking, better fed! Some would be deteriorating, grey-green, falling apart, from lack of food!

Funny how a building and painting session I was not looking forward to ended up to be so enjoyable (really most do!) and I think the final result came out better than I expected! Enjoy and if you do please leave a comment!

 

“Scabbard? my sword don’t need no stinken scabbard!”

24 figures and every one different! By keeping a consistent palette it allowed me to keep the group look and build/paint quickly as a group even though they are all different.

Several other units are already done and Episode #6 will soon be here!

Un-Dead Warband episode #4 ARKHAN the BLACK

To ENLARGE pictures just click on them and use you browsers back button to return to the article.

My take on the very popular “Arkhan the Black” figure from Games Workshop.

After I got me feet wet with the “basic” skeletons I was somewhat lost as to what to do next, Warriors, Cavalry, sacred ground? I had all the figures, a huge pile of bags and boxes. I was still unsure of the overall look I wanted for the un-dead army. I new I wanted it to be different and not just copy what was already done by others, I also wanted to use colors and techniques I had not done before, added to this I wanted the whole army to have a cohesive look and theme. I came to realize that instead of tackling another small element of my army that would possibly have only a few of the looks or techniques I wanted, I should go for the Warlord that would have them all. I figured the Warlord would set the tone for the rest of the army, easier to match the rest of the army to something that was already done than to something imagined. Yes it was a gamble as I had chosen for my warlord, Arkhan the Black out of the Games Workshop set for Age of Sigmar, the Skeleton Horde starter set. A beautiful figure in cool full plate armor sitting astride a very large skeletal beast, super impressive! One hell of a big, complicated figure, and one I knew I was going to modify as well!

This is a truly large figure as you can see by the “dead” 28mm figure laying on the ground! I’m pretty happy with the project as fantasy is not my usual cup of tea.

Frankly I was daunted at the task as this would be the biggest fantasy figure I had ever done and if I didn’t get it right the rest of the army would be a flop no matter what. There were also things I disliked about the figure.

  1. To many skulls all over the beast, inside and hanging off.
  2. I thought the spectral “Spirits” wrapped around the beast were also distracting from Arkhan.
  3. I didn’t like the look of his head.
  4. The Beast pose was not right to me.

Never the less I started into the figure thinking that like most projects the problems will sort out as you go along and indeed, they did.

Here is a picture of another painter’s very nice version of the model for comparison. You can see the “Spirits” that I removed, many of the extra dangling skulls that were also removed. This model used the second optional set of armor that is indeed made to fit what I felt was correctly but the second set was designed opposite. This one also has the original “Arkhan” head that I felt reminded me of a baker’s hat or the Pope! Sorry but for me the proportions of that tiny skull in that giant hat were just off.

The first solution I came up with was to tackle the figure in three sections, the Arkhon figure, the Beast, and the Base. This would solve several problems.

  • Priming and painting would be easier as separate pieces. Less troublesome than trying to work with the large assembled figure.
  • I could work with the individual sections to modify the pose, much easier.
  • A complete new base had to be done to better support the modified figure and meet the requirements on base size for SAGA.

Building the figure was relatively easy and went together smoothly with little flash or filling required. I built Arkhan without his head (I was searching for a replacement head) and also left off his cape. He comes with two cape choices and I was unsure if I was even going to use a cape. Either way attaching the cape now would make painting the figure extremely difficult. (I ended up painting the cape as a fourth piece and attaching last)

I dremeled out the underneath of the resin rock and filled it with lead shot for weight. Wear a mask!

I thought I had taken more pictures while assembling and painting Arkhan but it seems like always I get caught up in the build and forget!

During the build I removed the supporting “spirit” figures and put them away for later use. I also began to clip off or amputate as many of the dangling sculls as I could off the beast figure. Truthfully, I thought about trying to Dremel out or putty over them as I thought they were a bit over the top for me but to much work! I would much rather have had some rotting muscles or sinew in between the bones. My solution was to under paint them in a way that from a distance it looks like muscle/sinew and as you look closer you see their skulls, works for me!

Before painting I worked out the basing situation by using a left-over resin rock I cast off a stone in the yard for a terrain project. Being sort of small and resin I knew it would be prone to tipping over with the large 7 ½ inch Arkhan figure on it so I Dremeled out the bottom and filled it with lead shot and resin bringing the weight up from 1oz to near 5oz and added a wider base-plate later on for even more stability.

It was time now to fit the “beast” to the rock. I wanted the “beast” to look as if he was leaping off the rock after perching there, more like a leopard than a horse. I used his tail and one foot barely attached to the rock base giving the figure a nice sense of force and movement. This required some strong pinning with hidden brass rods to make it strong enough. The tail also required bending by heating with a hair dryer as well as a few cuts and repositioning so the tail curled perfectly around the rock and minimal contact with one foots claw.

I’m always amazed on how items that kick around in the “bits” box that you think you’ll never use suddenly “are just the thing I need” like this resin rock!

The three pins and the final pin in through the beast claw create a very strong “triangle” structure and really give stability to the model while still giving the impression of not really being connected. I was also very happy with the decision to remove the spirits as I felt they distracted from the main focus “Arkhan” on the “Beast”

You can see the ends of the brass pins that will be trimmed and glued becoming invisible with a bit of paint.

I used a small pin drill to pin the claw to the rock.

The beast was finished first to make painting easier and mounted so that positioning of Arkhan could happen. The position of the rider had to be modified since now the beast was up in a more rearing / jumping upright position and mounting as originally posed would have made Arkhan appear too laid back in the saddle! A bit of cutting, grinding, and filing to both figures soon had him looking good! I also positioned the cape and found a new head more to my liking. The new head was actually just one of the unused optional heads that comes in the same set for the horse mounted skeletal knights, worked out well!

The “new” face of Arkhan the Black, well I guess soon to be “the Red”. At this stage I was working on refitting him to the saddle based on the beasts new pose.

I love the plate armor on Arkhan and while black/metal may have looked good I was using bits of red through out the units to tie them together and I thought “hey Red armor” yep full red armor, the only one, signifying his importance in the warband. I did use black armor trim and for his armored boots to give some contrast.

Arkhan the Black all painted up and now Arkhan the Red!

At this point things were going well and I felt good about the build and pushing the envelope a bit with my painting skills when I hit a snag. I had picked out some armor the kit gives you for the beast and choose some the matched Arkhans style. Without pre-fitting (mistake!) I primed and painted it. On trying to fit it on I found that it was designed to go on exactly opposite of what I thought and wanted it to be.

This is how it was designed to fit, looks terrible! Probably why on 99% of the pictures of finished models on the internet use the other armor option!

I thought that this looked well frankly, stupid and silly, the plates going up like that but oh well, I guess someone liked it . I used a bit of picture tack to reposition the armor as I wanted it (upside down) and to my relief found it would fit (with a bit of cutting).

Checking position I found the front bone had to be trimmed to make it fit. I should have pre-fitted this before painting! I know better!

However, there was now a large gap in the front because of the mismatch caused by reversing the pieces. This was one of those times when a modeler needs to set the project down for a day or two and think it out. I was too mad at myself and the piece to do good work. After calming down for a day and thinking it out I came to the conclusion, I hated the armor installed as designed but hated the gap caused by installing upside down. Ok, out comes the plastic sheet, epoxy, and some greenstuff (kneadite). The extra few hours work get filed under “lesson learned, again!”

The gap was bloody awful! I thought about taking the cowards way out and just touch up the paint, most would never notice, but I would, forever!

I put the armor on using “picture tack” to temporally hold it in place and then a bit of glue up front to bond the two halves. I took a few pictures and a few measurements to insure it went back exactly where I wanted it. The measurements were also used to make sure that I had it right for the next step. I carefully removed the armor. The solution was to create a small triangle backup piece to fill the gap, bond the pieces together, and serve as a backing plate for the additional greenstuff bone horns and armor.

Polystyrene plate cut to form base and bridge gap.

Reinforcing 2 part epoxy added (the grey stuff on the right)

This plastic “plate” was super glued in and given a thick backing of strong two part epoxy (JB-Kwick Weld) for added strength. A bit of work with the greenstuff and my modeling tools and I had a very acceptable fix!

Bone and armor plate sculpted to taste!

A bit of paint and I can just hear people saying “wait my kit didn’t come with that option?” Putting it back on the model was a bit tough as it had to be stretched to near breaking. That’s why I used the two-part epoxy as superglue is brittle and would have given way.

In place and looking much better. I really love it now as it looks very form fitted and flows down the beast sides

I love how the armor seems to be custom fitted over the beast shoulders.

I was unsure of what I wanted the armor to look like paint wise and almost went with the same blood red color as on Arkhan. Once again not wanting to draw attention away from Arkhan I went with a different look but still in keeping with the style. I really like how it came out but don’t ask me how I did it…. The model is coated with a combination of Testor’s clear lacquer coatings ranging from semi-dull to near gloss, applied with and airbrush at around 15-20 PSI. Over the years I have started using different blends of clear coats to enhance the look of figures and I think it works well here to deepen the colors.

Gems in the sword and on his armor were done as Jade and emeralds.

I have never been good at doing precious stones or gems, mostly because there are few opportunities when painting 1812 French or WWII Panzer Grenadiers but I tried to improve my game while doing the un-dead as several figures have them. There are other effects on the figure that challenged me with new looks like the ghostly spectral force cape and the flowing magical whatever it is off the gem… yep certainly none of that on a Panzer Grenadier! Fun none the less!

Frankly I almost took the cowards way out and switched out the “magical power staff?” for a sword but I’m glad I did not as it ads height and looks good with the figure. It also helps to create the sense of movement I wanted.

Well If you made it this far thanks for reading it and I hope you enjoyed it I know I enjoyed the project immensely. I will leave you with a few gallery pictures and some comments. There should be some more of the Un-Dead up soon as I have paint most of it already, painting is fun, writing is too, just not as much. This website in the beginning was about reaching to others in the hobby, but over time I have come to realize it is more for me, a  diary of “My Journey in the World of Wargaming”

Static Grass gone Wrong

Several years ago I decided to learn to make my own “Static Grass Tufts” and as part of that I built myself a negative ion grass applicator. Now those who know me are well aware that when I go, I go big most of the time, and this was no exception. Not content with buying one, or a simple small conversion using a cheap 9 volt battery powered electric bug zapper, I went full tilt and made a 120 volt powered applicator that Darth Vader would be proud of!

Fun to learn about, build, and have it work but its not that practical for most “wargaming” applications.

It works great, full coverage over big areas!I guess if you were do some large battlefield or convention terrain it would be great but as the wise Tim D said “Tufts? Why?, I buy all I want online”

Me being sorta stubborn I was determined to justify making it and having just finished  some 15mm French Cavalry I decided to use it to static grass the bases!

Just used it on the Cavalry, what do you all think? Perhaps a tad too much?

I might give them a permanent “in cover” bonus the next game! “Dam! is that French Cavalry on our flank?” “No sir! just some oddly shaped bushes”

Seriously the applicator works great, but for basing where you also have a “metal” figures the electric “charge” causes the grass to gather on it as well! For terrain and other projects its great but really more of a model railroaders item or even static “plastic” modelers tool. For basing a plastic squeeze bottle like the ones used in restaurants for ketchup or mustard works fine for basing.

Gripping Beast 28mm Viking Bowmen conversion.

Steve Gausche life long gaming pal! We had just re-based his ACW troops on magnets!

For most of us the current situation has given us a change in schedule, for me working at home equals no commute time, less shopping trips, dinners out, visiting, trips, and gaming with my friends (booo!). When I saw this coming I vowed to try and use all the unexpected time to do things that have been put off in the past. If you have been following the post here (please subscribe! top right home page) you will know that one of the goals was to organize my website better and post more often! So while going through files I found several partially completed posts and articles that for one reason or another never made it onto the site. One of them was the “second half” of Stevie G’s “Byzantine Birthday Bash” article. Remember it was when I painted up some Byzantine Cataphracts for him and he accepted them with “wow great! but…I would rather have some plain old Viking archers”. Well I never finished the article “Stevie G Birthday Bash part two!” so here it is, finished.

Byzantine Birthday Update! In the last post “Byzantine Birthday Bash” I talked about Steve not being totally enthused with my gift of the Byzantine Cataphracts and while loving the figures he just felt he would not use them much. It was decided that I would keep the Byzantines and instead paint him up a 12 figure unit of “Viking archers” since his Viking war band was currently using a unit of spear-men to represent archers. I had gotten a pack of Gripping Beast archers from Steve months ago and was going to give them some custom additions to make them look a bit “cooler” on the battlefield. This would be the addition of bowstrings and arrows that are normally missing on molded figures. I have a very nice Viking Warband (even if I do say so myself) and I took great care to make my bowmen look realistic, like they were really firing their bows. My Viking warband uses all “Foundry Vikings” as I regard them as some of the best ever produced! The adding of bowstrings and arrows to figures can be tough since many sculptors have never shot a bow, or figure that the end user wont care about the missing parts.
When I opened the Gripping beast package of 12 “bowmen” I was somewhat disappointed in the poses and sculpts. First the poses are really only three, Standing firing, kneeling firing, and moving / drawing arrow. There is a bit of fiddling with the basic pose to try and make them look different but in my opinion it fails. I felt when finished  this unit would look very much like a unit of “toy soldiers” no matter how it was painted.

The GB figure with just a bit of preliminary modification to see what was possible.

The GB figures with just a bit of preliminary modification to see what was possible.

Well me being me, I decided to do something in an attempt to remedy this by trying to give some uniqueness and variety to the figures. As I pondered how to do this I started to prep the figures for bowstrings and arrows. I quickly found that this was not going to be easy given the figures current poses. Many of the arms were at wrong angles, resulting in the bowstrings having to pass through the figures face or body.

Arms were at the wrong angles or to short making major modifications a must!

Arms were at the wrong angles or to short making major modifications a must! Three of the same figure. The second one shows original position with out bow, arm pulling back an imaginary arrow. First figure shows the bow installed and the attempt at adding the bow string. I would have to cut off his head to make it work and archers rarely held a bow in this position except when on horseback. The third figure shows how I corrected this by cutting off and repositioning the arm.

A small bit of reach was added to each arm to correct it's proportion.

A small bit of reach was added to each arm to correct it’s proportion and angle. A brass rod pin holds it in position while filling and sculpting as well as adding needed strength!

Simply bending the arms would not work either since the arms were a bit short in the original sculpt. I resigned myself to the fact that to make this work I would have to extend all the shooters arms as well as change the orientation of the knelling shooters arms by cutting / pinning/ filling them for every figure. Even the moving figure had a raised arm and hand that made one wonder what he is supposed to be doing. I solved that by putting an arrow in his hand as if he just “drew it” from the quiver and was about to nock it up.
As I delved into the project I also decided on other small modifications to “individualize” the figures from one another with additional shields, weapons, and hair styles.

Pro Tips: To avoid damage to figures when trying to bend arms, legs, or other thick parts use a good quality pair of needle nose pliers BUT lay a small wrap of leather in between the pliers and the figure to avoid marring or damaging the casting! The compression of the leather will give you a better grip and allow more force to be used. Also the area is thick, hard to bend, and to avoid distortion, try making a few cuts with a hobby knife or thin blade saw on the side you will be towards. removing a small amount of material there will make the process easier and look better. Fill the tiny cracks with gap filling super glue.

VK9

A bit of a change in hair and a shield creates just enough difference in the figure that combined with different paint schemes makes the group look much more realistic. The lengthened arm now works to create the right balance of dimensions between the arrow, bow, and arm. The first figure now clearly gives the impression that he has fired one arrow and is getting ready to fire a second.

The “Bow Strings” were made of steel wire, cut, and super glued. I thought I might add a wrapping around were the bowstring is connected to the bow but decided that in this scale I could just paint that on and get the “effect” without all the work.

The arrows are made of thicker brass rod and “arrow heads” made by gently hammering tips flat then filing. I also sculpted “flutes”, the feathers you see on the end of an arrow that makes it fly true. They are a bit big perhaps but I think they will look right after painting.

VK10

The “fletches” or feathers on the arrows are rough and would be historically as arrows had to be made quickly and cheaply in time of war, they were also not expected to be used over and over. There were better arrows made but those were rarer and used more for hunting or when individual accuracy was needed. Dark Age bows in warfare were more of a massed effect weapon than a specific target weapon.

I wished that the figures were arching up a bit, they are all shooting straight and level. Most archers would have been used as a group and be kept back to use their range so their aim would be higher.

VK8

I have used thick industrial thread for bowstrings at times but it can be fiddly to do and not look that great. Using small steel wire is much easier and sturdier. Brass wire is used for the arrows as it is easier to shape and work with. Two part sculpting epoxy “kneadite” was used for the feathers.

The other side of the figure shows where a sword out of the “bits box” was added and a belt sculpted on to make it look right! Shields and swords were added to many of the bowmen as they would have carried them for defense or when called upon for melee support!

The easy addition to the center figure of a arrow in his hand and the bow string make a huge difference!

Probably 3 or so hours of extra effort was put into modifying these guys prior to paint but the results are well worth the effort in my opinion.

These guys were actually rewarding to do and not that hard especially since I have done this for fifty to 70 others before in my warbands. It just makes archers sooo much better looking that for me it’s a must do!

Yea! Now these bowmen look like a proper threat! Well worth the effort!

with the modifications, additional weapons, shields, and a some paint they look a cohesive yet individual unit.