Workbench

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This Old Workbench #1<o:p>

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From the first time I painted a figure I knew I would never have enough
time to paint all the troops I wanted. Lets face it with all the great figures
available today in so many different periods a person would have to spend twenty
four hours a day, seven days a week, all year just to put a dent in the pile!
Well not having that kind of time at my disposal I concentrated from the first
on developing methods of figure painting that were as fast and streamlined as
possible with out sacrificing quality! I firmly believe that good looking troops
weather they win or lose are a must, as complements on them can ease the pain of
a battle lost! The process I’ll discuss here will be centered around prepping,
priming, and finishing so no matter what style you use to paint your figures
these tips will still apply. So lets clear off a spot on the old work bench and
get to work!<o:p>
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The key to painting large numbers
of figures is to use an assembly line process to speed things up. Instead of
going through the different steps multiple times for all your figures you do
each step once for the whole bunch!<o:p>
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Prepping your figures is one of the
most important steps in the whole painting process. If you do a shoddy job here
it will show up later and spoil your fine paint job or at best require some
fixing and patching to make right. So take the time now it will save you time in
the long run.<o:p>
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After selecting your figures,
usually 5 to 30 depending on the scale and complexity, ( I’ve found that to many
figures at a time can lead to burnout and boredom! ) you’ll need to clean up the
mold flash. I’ve found that you can save some time using a hobby knife with semi
dull blade, it will take off the flash without catching and digging into the
figure. Try holding the knife at about a 45 degree angle and the blade pointed
away from you. Draw the knife toward you scraping along the mold lines, this
will have the effect of wearing down the high edge and forcing the excess flash
into the low edge. You’ll find this to be much faster than using a jewelers file
and you wont have to remove as much metal to get the job done. As you clean each
figure mentally note the detail and start to think about colors you will use and
the order in which they will be applied. Next lay a large file flat on your
table and while holding one end take a figure and draw its base back and forth
along the file, this will allow your figures to sit flat when you mount them
with out cracks and gaps that have to be filled with glue and flocking.<o:p>
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Now its time to mount them to a
temporary base so that they can be easily handled while you prime and paint
them. Trying to hold figures while you paint them is awkward at best and will
cost time while you wait for one part to dry before painting the next. By
mounting the figure and not having to handle it directly you’ll avoid smearing
and smudging and can for example paint the pants while the jacket is drying! 
Over the years I’ve seen many different methods for mounting, popsicle
sticks, paint jar tops, coins, etc., some working better than others. After some
trial and error I’ve come up with a system that works better than any I’ve seen
so far.<o:p>
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You’ll need three basic ingredients
for this style of mounting, a piece of Styrofoam sheet
 approximately
6"x10"x1" but even some old packing
 material will work, nails,8
penny work very well ( a one pound box should last your life time ), and a hot
glue gun ( believe me if you’ve never used one there great and well worth the
$10 to $15 dollar investment, I got mine from Sears, its 15 years old been
dropped half a dozen times and still works great!) 
To start dab about a pea size portion of glue on to the first nail then
center the bottom of the figure on the nail. The glue will set in 3-4 seconds.
Push the nail into the Styrofoam and go onto the next one. At first do one at a
time, then when you start getting the hang of it space your nails out in the
Styrofoam first( I split my figures into two rows lengthwise, about 1" in
from the edge )and then go down the line dabbing a little glue on and following
right away with a figure. The reason for using a hot glue gun is two fold the
glue cools and "sets" almost immediately holding your figure secure
for painting, and with just a little pressure your figure will pop off and be
free of any trace of glue unlike wood glue or super glues that usually require
that you file the base’s again before mounting. The Styrofoam will hold the
nails quite well and works sort of the same way a pin cushion does. When you
start getting to many holes in it toss it out. I buy a piece about 2’x4′ and
then cut new pieces as I need them. <o:p>
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You can also use the hot glue process for painting buildings, terrain,
etc. For the larger stuff I use a wood dowel rod or piece of plastic pipe. Hot
glue will form a temporary bond to almost any thing! Be warned if you get it
on cloth it will not "pop off" but will get into the clothes fibers,
pretty much for ever. Same thing goes for any porous materials. If in doubt
try a test on a piece you can trash before hand.<o:p>
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You can also use the hot glue
process for painting buildings, terrain, etc. For the larger stuff I use a wood
 
 
Now that your figures are cleaned up, mounted, they are ready to prime. No
matter what anyone tells you if you want your figures to last you must prime
them with a good metal or plastic primer and then finish them with a protective
coating. Some of my figures are approaching 15 years old and they still look
great despite many, many battles! I
use spray primer on my figures, it cost a little more but the savings in time is
tremendous. You can use any metal primers such as those used on car repairs, a
can is usually half the price and twice as big as the spray primer produced
"especially for miniatures". It works just as well! no matter what people will tell you,
I’ve got several blue ribbons to prove it! Once you have your figures setup into
rows in the foam hold the can 8" to 10" away from your two rows of
figures and make a couple of light passes. The first pass should be low at an
angle across the Styrofoam up toward the bottom of the figure, next straight on,
and third at a slight<img border=”0″ src=”TOW1b.jpg” align=”right” hspace=”3″ vspace=”5″ width=”419″ height=”287″> angle down toward the top of the figure. If you are doing
this right the excess over spray should be also lightly coating the figures in
the row behind. The paint should take only 10 to 30 seconds to dry and lose its
shine between coats. Turn to the other side and repeat the procedure. Now spray
lengthwise down the rows. Next rotate the figures 180 degrees and repeat the
process. Your figures should be well covered by this time with out any runs and
the detail intact. When priming this way you’ll have a tendency to paint your
fingers while holding the Styrofoam, so I use a cheap dish glove on that hand to
avoid "painters finger". After you’ve finished painting your figures
you can put on your protective coating with the same method used to apply the
primer.<o:p>
 
 The
nails are the best part of the system. By holding the end of the nail between
your thumb and forefinger you can twist your The
nails are the best part of the system. By holding the end of the nail between
your thumb and forefinger you can twist your figure 360 degrees and with a
little wrist movement and by holding the nail upside down get 360 the other way to.
This will allow you to paint at a comfortable angel no matter what part of the
figure your working on! Try twisting the figure while its in contact with the
brush you’ll find that this has the effect of extending your stroke with out
having to move your wrist and possibly causing waves in the stroke. This works
great for long lines around objects like hat bands etc. 
Many  point the stick will get in the way, or at best put you in an
uncomfortable angle to paint. The head of the nail being smaller than the
figures base and in line with the figure as opposed to 90 degrees like the stick
so you wont have this  problem.<o:p>
 

When
you finished up your figures be sure and give them a good coating of protective
finish! Like I said before if you want them to last its a must! I see a lot of
people take a lot of time painting the troops and never coat them, a few battles
and they are already showing wear spots. In "Wargaming" we handle our
pieces all the time, knock them over, etc, just the oil from you fingers not to
mention that pizza can affect the paint! 
I
have always spayed mine with a good quality finish in matte, semi gloss and even
gloss. Over the years I have found that dull coating gives some protection but
its not really
very long lasting as it forms only a very thin coating even with multiple
passes. I now spray everything with a good coating of gloss that really seals
the figure and then hit it again later with Semi or Matte finish if I need to.
This will form a coating so tough that you can take and wash your figures
without fear if need be!</o:p>

  
By using some or all these methods
you should be able get your raw recruits painted and on the battlefield faster
than ever! M<o:p>
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Do you have a question, comment, or a tip you’d like to pass on send it along
with a self addressed stamped envelope (if you want a reply) to This Old
Workbench  Bill Witthans 31315 Tobiah Pl. Castaic, Ca. 91384 or EMAIL me and I will get
back to you right after we finish this 1 to 1 scale French army! Just kidding! <o:p>
 

Need to send a
message? Just click on my courier ……………..<a href=”mailto:vonkluge@mediaone.net”><img border=”0″ src=”../../images/Jerry_cycle.gif” width=”93″ height=”100″></a>

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