Undead SAGA Warband episode #6 “Skeletal Giant”

Pretty intimidating to see this guy coming at you

So just a quick post up of more “UnDead” that should have gone up long ago but just been busy and posting is way down the list of important things in life…. trying to get in more post means less writing and just slapping up the pictures!

I absolutely love the sculpt and especially the weapons on this guy! Also the “repairs” to the bones from past battle damage.

I did this guy last year and he’s figured in a few battles. Very imposing at about 7+ inches considering regular 28mm is a bit over 1 inch! He’s a REAPER figure, the metal version, and was a joy to build, convert, and paint! In SAGA he’s a hard hitter being a 14/0 armor 4 or 12/0 armor 5 depending on how you run him.

It’s a big heavy figure and I took time to drill and brass pin all the joints. Legs, arms, and torso, joints were also epoxied with 2 part JB Weld as even quality super glue would not be up to the task! The JB KwikWeld is also very good at filling in gap and can be carved before full curing and sanded at full cure.

I used a semi-gloss coating on this figure just like the rest of the UnDead warband as it gives a bit more kick, deeper colors, and just looks great to me.

Worked on a few techniques that I do not normally do on historical figures, aged bronze blade, cats eye star sapphire jewel, and a Jade handle.

I love how the modified pose came out, much more dynamic and taller than the original hunched over pose the stock model has. This required cutting, bending, repositioning, and pinning of legs, torso, arms, hands/weapons, and his head.

I liked this figure so much I bought a second version, slightly different and made from that weird plastic and sold under the “Bones” division of REAPER miniatures as well as a second identical figure to this one. Both currently in the “lead pile” for future projects.

Detail on this REAPER figure is just right, not to little nor to much like many over done Games Workshop models.

This guy is always ready to”lend a hand” on the battlefield! He carries one on his belt just in case…..

A small amount of the tattered cloth hanging on him was painted with the same “red” found to some degree on all figures in the warband to tie them all together.

Project Space Marines or Marines from the future for a Future Marine!

Several months ago, my son mentioned he was playing Warhammer 40k on his PC from time to time and asked me to paint him a Space Marine to sit on his computer desk. This sort of touched my heart as in all the years of seeing me play wargames and paint miniature army’s he never really got the bug for that part of my hobby. He did get a love of history, gaming (on the PC), just never really picked up a brush. It reminded me of my father and I, my dad loved the outdoors, history, and hunting. I picked up his love of camping, history, but never became a hunter.

Well, I took up the task and decided to not just paint a figure but do something that would challenge my skills and give him something to not only enjoy but become a keepsake to remember me by.

I’m not a Warhammer player and haven’t painted any Space Marines but I was familiar with the game and the figures, in fact I had some hanging around awaiting possible conversion for other games. One of them was an old “Beakie” space marine from the 1990’s that had been kicking around my painting area for 20+ years! Plans started to formulate for the project;

  • It had to be impressive, make a statement, inspire.
  • It had to be something you wanted to display, not get tossed in a drawer later.
  • It had to last….
  • It had to have a personal attachment that meant something to both of us.

I decided I was going to do a diorama something that would have multiple facets of interest for the viewer and maintain interest over time. I had the one figure but my son wanted a figure with a banner and after scouring the internet settled on Warhammer 40k Primaris Space Marine Ancient Adeptus Astartes figure off Ebay. Now having both figures I formulated ideas for the vignette. I almost included a 40k Space Marine speeder with four other figures that would be dropping the Space Marine officer on  some ruins seeming to plant the banner, but realized this would be way to big (after I have already bought the speeder set of course). I also started thinking of how to enclose the vignette and protect it from dust and damage.

There are all types and sizes of these little display cases called “Bell Cloques” and they are great for displaying Mini’s!

This led me to looking at Bell Cloques to house the vignette in. If you aren’t familiar with these, they are simply a glass dome set on a base that allows 360 viewing of an item while protecting it. I found one on Amazon for around $25, 3 ½ “ wide x 7 ½” tall, and it had LED lights in it! I thought that would add a whole other dimension to the project and make it display better. It would be a perfect size for his computer desk. Having the two figures and now locking down the space the project had to fit into allowed me to start working out the scene, structure, and figure pose.

It was about this time that I get tired of thinking about a project and start just doing it and letting things progress, discovering problems and working out solutions as they arise. So, I started by cleaning up the two badly assembled miniatures figuring out how to paint them. The old beaky Space Marine was left in his original pose while the Officer/bannerman was chopped up and reposed to look more dynamic. I also decided to not paint these as “Ultra Marines” in their striking blue armor, but go with “Blood Angeles” and their very vibrant blood red armor.

Disappointed that the “LED” lighting did nothing to light up the miniatures in the display!

Once I got the display, I was excited to check out the “led” light function but was disappointed that the LEDs being set into the base under the glass bell really only light up the glass not the interior and frankly were more distracting than helpful. I decided to just work on other parts of the project while pondering the led situation.

I decided to put the two figures in an urban firefight situation and created some two-level building ruins for this. I put a separate round base under it for strength and so I did not have to build directly on the display case in the event it had to be replaced at some point. I was also still a bit unclear on positioning of the figures. I also made a decision to rip out the LEDs, drill a hole in the base to allow me to bring the LEDs up into the vignette area and perhaps use them to actually light it. Once done I played around with position and lighting.

The basic structure formed. The LED’s were gently removed, and re-routed through a newly drilled hole. Batteries and a switch for the are in the base.

Me hanging with “Mr Bean” at Kirkwood ski resort while Paul snowboarded… His harness looks a bit like the armor I’ll put on the figure later.

Things were starting to take shape but there was still something missing, the “personal touch”, the thing that would make it connect with Paul and I.

I couldn’t have found a better match!

Now at the time this was all happening Paul had adopted a dog from the local shelter during a visit at Christmas, an 8-month-old Pit, Labrador mix, a real sweetie! we had both spent some time training and caring for the dog we named “Beans” and the idea struck me to find a miniature that resembled “Beans” and put him in the scene. It was surprised to find the spitting image of “Beans” in 28mm from a company called DarkSword Miniatures and ordered a pack.

The scene now had a theme of an advanced scouting party establishing a forward observation post with their canine war dog!

While I fooled around with the dog’s position, I felt that I needed to alter “Beans” a bit to more fit in as part of the Blood Angeles force. Out came the Kneadite 2 part sculpting putty. I used the putty to ad power armor to his upper body, held in place with a mean looking spiked collar and a belly strap. I also added in a small bump with an antenna on the armor to represent a tracking/voice/camera transponder system. I purposely limited the armor because I wanted to be able to paint and have the figure readily identifiable as “Beans”

I think “bean’s” adds that touch of realism to the scene and shows that despite Warhammers claim that “in the dark future there is only war!” Space Marines still love their dogs!

It was around this point that as always, I get so wrapped up in the process and it’s coming together that I quit taking “in-progress” shots so will get to the finial “done” photos. I will say that I spent some time on working out the lighting effect and how to have it look as natural in the vignette as possible without taking over, or looking out of place in the scene. All in all, this was a real fun project for me done with a lot of love and dedication for my son Paul who is leaving his job in the corporate world with Patagonia (outdoor clothing) to become a pilot in the US Marines! I think his dog and the Marine tie in will give him years of enjoyment!

Picture with the LED’s on.

DOUBLE CLICK pictures to open a larger version!

Riddle of the Sphinx

Being a guy who couldn’t cook to save his life and likely to starve with out my good wife watching over me you can imagine my wife and daughters surprise several years ago when they caught me watching the “Great British Baking Show”! I found the show fun to watch, interesting to see how these baked works of art were created, and frankly I could listen to the dictionary being read to me if it was done with an English accent! Little did I know that what I would learn watching this show would help me in the wargaming world….I make a lot of terrain and while making a damaged “Sphinx” model for a friend I thought about what a pain it was to spread out filler on the base while creating the underlay for the drifting sand. I use “Durham’s Rock-Hard” wood putty quite a bit and it can be messy and a bit troublesome when trying to apply in a controlled manner quickly. It spreads easy when very thin, gets into cracks, but wont hold shape well or stay put. When its thicker it is hard to spread out evenly, retains brush marks and starts to set up.I spent a few days on other projects, always though in the back of my mind thinking on a new way to apply the filler. Then bingo I thought back to the baking show and how they used “icing cones” when decorating cakes, would it work with wood putty?

A quick trip to the market and I had a dozen plastic “icing cones” for $6 US. Mixed up a fist size batch of filler, scooped it into the icing bag, rolled and clipped the bag end closed, cut the other end off creating about a ¼ inch hole, and I was ready to go.

To apply it you simply point the open tip where you want filler and squeeze the bag! Wow, just like a tube of toothpaste, it worked better than I had hoped for.

  • Varying consistency of the mix, thicker or thinner, helps in control and flow.
  • Roll from the “fill” end pushing material towards the tip. Like a tube of toothpaste!
  • Small clips are useful to close each end.
  • A few soft flat brushes and water can help in moving or smoothing out applied filler.
  • A small amount of PVA wood glue added to the mix makes the putty even harder!
  • Bags are reusable when cleaned out quickly.Who would have thought that watching “the Great British Baking Show” would make one a better painter… just goes to show you never know where that next “cool trick” will come from!

Bill Witthans

 

The second-best lamp for painting miniatures

My Workbench about 5 years ago, not bad, looking well used! My old lamps were hot, didn’t have the best output, and never quite reached or stayed where I wanted them.

Over the last couple of years I have been upping my game as far as workbench/workspace when it comes to miniatures painting. Well, this weekend I bought and added the second-best miniature “painting lamp” to my work bench setup! It’s made by BYBLIGHT and is easily the second-best painting light I’ve ever owned!

  • Touch control, no switches to have to twist and go bad. Memory remembers your settings from use to use!
  • 6 level, touch dimmer control
  • Color temperature selection, 3200k, 4200k, 5200k, and 6200k, paint under the right light!
  • Very nice diffused light with changeable diffusion panel.
  • LED’S with 50,000 hours life expectancy with no Flicker of UV on all levels.
  • Low power consumption and generates low heat.
  • Well built arms that get to where you want them and stay there. Fully adjustable lamp head.

Well made, well packed, and well worth it!

Tools, replacement rubber grommets, clamp, cleaning pad, and instructions, wow!

Add to this the great design and look of this lamp along with great quality in manufacturing makes this lamp a winner! Its not cheap at around $90 bucks but taking into consideration that I’ve gone through 2-3 of the cheaper typical one bulb desk lamps over the years and this one looks to last much longer, it’s not bad! When you add all the above features in and paint with it a few times you wish these would have been around years ago! They also come with a high quality clamp for attaching to a desk, a wrench for tightening loose parts, a cleaning cloth, and a nice bag to keep it all in. There are a few “knock offs” of this lamp, cheaper but not as good! I got one on sale at $86 during the “pandemic” but $96 with free shipping is the best I can find now.

Buy it here;  https://www.amazon.com/BYB-Architect-Eye-care-Drafting-Dimmable/dp/B00V9YW41O

Even the packaging is well done and shows some pride in manufacturing, rare today!

Miniature painting and wargaming is a visual hobby and your eyes are an indispensable tool! We often think about, figures, paints, brushes, and other things more than these most important of all resources! Treat them with care, you only get two, one time, and they have to last a life time. Some of us are getting older and it becomes even more important to have the proper type of light and enough of it!

You may be wondering why it’s “the second-best miniature “painting lamp” and not the first?” well simply because its the second one of these lamps I’ve purchased! The first one was such a joy and for me “the best miniature painting lamp” this one could only be the second!

Yep, a second lamp! Everyone knows that two lamps are better than one!”

I originally made the move to this second lamp as the old desk lamp was failing and rather than spending $45 replacing it I upgraded. I was about to toss the old lamp out when I got a twinge of recycle-ability and thought I take a stab at repair first. Well I now have a new (old lamp) lamp on my “spray station” cart!

Roll around airbrush / spray can station I built years ago. Hose at rear plugs into shop compressor.

Undead SAGA Warband episode #5 “Mindless”

Well just like the Star Wars franchise, the story of my undead or as it started the “secret” warband doesn’t appear in the exact order it was made in, or posted in. The reasons for this are many, my mood, time to write verse time to paint, time to take pictures, and other things all factor in to when I do a post.

DOUBLE CLICK pictures for a bigger picture!

I did these fast and used all the tricks I know to cut corners while still having them look good and match the rest of the Warband. Painted all at once I think they came out pretty well for a “mass o figures”

This episode #5 “the Mindless” has figures that are painted sort of far into the project and figures I was frankly not that interested in painting as I thought they would be simple and uninteresting. Heck how interesting is the paint job on a mass of putrid, rotting, flesh going to be? I thought they certainly wouldn’t stand out on the battlefield like the Skeletal Giant” or a group of charging mounted Un-Dead Knights, and I was right they don’t. I approached this build and paint with an attitude of “let’s get this over with”

Mantic has both Ghouls and Zombie sets and I figured this would allow quite a bit of body part/head swapping to create even more variations. Also being plastic a good deal of figure modification was possible (sharpen up the xacto knife!)

I had chosen to use the Mantic Games “Zombie and Ghoul” figures that appear in the SAGA age of Magic book as part of the “Undead Warband”. I looked at lots of other manufactures, many with great looking figures but soon realized that most manufactures had a very limited range of poses when it came to the look/style required to fit into my warband. I kept coming back to the Mantic line since I liked the very dynamic style and look. Their range while still a bit limited but by being plastic “parts” offered more possible variations than the others. As I have said in the past “Plastic figures have grown on me”, yep from hating them to almost loving them sometimes! Mantic Games offered a combo deal on these figures at the time so with a few extra sprues from ebay I was set to create my 24 Mindless!

Primed and ready for paint. I usually use a black primer Krylon spray can primer for metals but for plastics my new “goto” is Alclad black primer with micro filler. It works very well but must be applied with an airbrush.

With all of my paint jobs I spend some time thinking about the look I want as well as WHY that look, and why that look works. Last, I decide how to paint them, style, fast, slow, detailed, blending, washes, etc.… although often all this will change as the build/ paint progresses.

A lot of Ghoul and Zombie figures have clothing or weapons that “date” them or tie them to a theme, the MANTIC figures a generic enough to allow them to serve almost anywhere.

Their flesh is is always in a constant state of deterioration or restoration so my color palette reflected this. I went from near living flesh down to a grey/green rotting look. I loved the exposed bone on many figures and the anguished looks!

The advantage of plastics is invaluable when doing conversions! This pose would be impossible in metal. The figure was originally a squat pose but by cutting, bending, and use of certain arm combination, creates this dynamic leaping figure.

The first thing I noticed when I began to cut the pieces off the sprues and assemble them was that the majority of the figures are bent over in squat, crouching positions, to much so for me, but the trusty Xacto knife, some glue, and a bit of putty soon had them looking a bit more threatening! About this time I realized I was actually enjoying this build and growing to like the figures more and more. The plastic is high quality and easy to work with, flash was very minimal, although mold lines were pretty bad. I figured that the look and the way I was going to paint these guys would hide a lot of them. Building them was fun and I think I got some great poses often swapping pieces from both figure types.

Mold lines like you see on the flesh colored figure at center right were common. I removed some but left many as you don’t really notice them in a group. The sword through the belly was created by me with help from the “bit’s box”

Another favorite pose with a meat cleaver, the camp cook! Clothes were intentionally left drab and nondescript to avoid drawing your eye from the rest of the figure.

Now on to painting. This is where that “why that look” comes into the process in figuring out what “that look” will be. In my mind (a very dusty, cramped, and often dangerous place to roam) Zombies and Ghouls are powered by a dark evil force back into the world of the living, but that initial force can only restore and sustain them for so long. The creatures need to consume the living to continue on and grow stronger, just like a vampire needs fresh blood from the living, Zombies and Ghouls need flesh and brains. So, this governed my thinking when painting them. Individual figures would be built and painted to reflect their current state of re-animation so to speak, some would be just re-animated, in bad shape and wildly looking for more flesh while some of them would be “better” looking more fleshed out and human looking, better fed! Some would be deteriorating, grey-green, falling apart, from lack of food!

Funny how a building and painting session I was not looking forward to ended up to be so enjoyable (really most do!) and I think the final result came out better than I expected! Enjoy and if you do please leave a comment!

 

“Scabbard? my sword don’t need no stinken scabbard!”

24 figures and every one different! By keeping a consistent palette it allowed me to keep the group look and build/paint quickly as a group even though they are all different.

Several other units are already done and Episode #6 will soon be here!

Un-Dead Warband episode #4 ARKHAN the BLACK

To ENLARGE pictures just click on them and use you browsers back button to return to the article.

My take on the very popular “Arkhan the Black” figure from Games Workshop.

After I got me feet wet with the “basic” skeletons I was somewhat lost as to what to do next, Warriors, Cavalry, sacred ground? I had all the figures, a huge pile of bags and boxes. I was still unsure of the overall look I wanted for the un-dead army. I new I wanted it to be different and not just copy what was already done by others, I also wanted to use colors and techniques I had not done before, added to this I wanted the whole army to have a cohesive look and theme. I came to realize that instead of tackling another small element of my army that would possibly have only a few of the looks or techniques I wanted, I should go for the Warlord that would have them all. I figured the Warlord would set the tone for the rest of the army, easier to match the rest of the army to something that was already done than to something imagined. Yes it was a gamble as I had chosen for my warlord, Arkhan the Black out of the Games Workshop set for Age of Sigmar, the Skeleton Horde starter set. A beautiful figure in cool full plate armor sitting astride a very large skeletal beast, super impressive! One hell of a big, complicated figure, and one I knew I was going to modify as well!

This is a truly large figure as you can see by the “dead” 28mm figure laying on the ground! I’m pretty happy with the project as fantasy is not my usual cup of tea.

Frankly I was daunted at the task as this would be the biggest fantasy figure I had ever done and if I didn’t get it right the rest of the army would be a flop no matter what. There were also things I disliked about the figure.

  1. To many skulls all over the beast, inside and hanging off.
  2. I thought the spectral “Spirits” wrapped around the beast were also distracting from Arkhan.
  3. I didn’t like the look of his head.
  4. The Beast pose was not right to me.

Never the less I started into the figure thinking that like most projects the problems will sort out as you go along and indeed, they did.

Here is a picture of another painter’s very nice version of the model for comparison. You can see the “Spirits” that I removed, many of the extra dangling skulls that were also removed. This model used the second optional set of armor that is indeed made to fit what I felt was correctly but the second set was designed opposite. This one also has the original “Arkhan” head that I felt reminded me of a baker’s hat or the Pope! Sorry but for me the proportions of that tiny skull in that giant hat were just off.

The first solution I came up with was to tackle the figure in three sections, the Arkhon figure, the Beast, and the Base. This would solve several problems.

  • Priming and painting would be easier as separate pieces. Less troublesome than trying to work with the large assembled figure.
  • I could work with the individual sections to modify the pose, much easier.
  • A complete new base had to be done to better support the modified figure and meet the requirements on base size for SAGA.

Building the figure was relatively easy and went together smoothly with little flash or filling required. I built Arkhan without his head (I was searching for a replacement head) and also left off his cape. He comes with two cape choices and I was unsure if I was even going to use a cape. Either way attaching the cape now would make painting the figure extremely difficult. (I ended up painting the cape as a fourth piece and attaching last)

I dremeled out the underneath of the resin rock and filled it with lead shot for weight. Wear a mask!

I thought I had taken more pictures while assembling and painting Arkhan but it seems like always I get caught up in the build and forget!

During the build I removed the supporting “spirit” figures and put them away for later use. I also began to clip off or amputate as many of the dangling sculls as I could off the beast figure. Truthfully, I thought about trying to Dremel out or putty over them as I thought they were a bit over the top for me but to much work! I would much rather have had some rotting muscles or sinew in between the bones. My solution was to under paint them in a way that from a distance it looks like muscle/sinew and as you look closer you see their skulls, works for me!

Before painting I worked out the basing situation by using a left-over resin rock I cast off a stone in the yard for a terrain project. Being sort of small and resin I knew it would be prone to tipping over with the large 7 ½ inch Arkhan figure on it so I Dremeled out the bottom and filled it with lead shot and resin bringing the weight up from 1oz to near 5oz and added a wider base-plate later on for even more stability.

It was time now to fit the “beast” to the rock. I wanted the “beast” to look as if he was leaping off the rock after perching there, more like a leopard than a horse. I used his tail and one foot barely attached to the rock base giving the figure a nice sense of force and movement. This required some strong pinning with hidden brass rods to make it strong enough. The tail also required bending by heating with a hair dryer as well as a few cuts and repositioning so the tail curled perfectly around the rock and minimal contact with one foots claw.

I’m always amazed on how items that kick around in the “bits” box that you think you’ll never use suddenly “are just the thing I need” like this resin rock!

The three pins and the final pin in through the beast claw create a very strong “triangle” structure and really give stability to the model while still giving the impression of not really being connected. I was also very happy with the decision to remove the spirits as I felt they distracted from the main focus “Arkhan” on the “Beast”

You can see the ends of the brass pins that will be trimmed and glued becoming invisible with a bit of paint.

I used a small pin drill to pin the claw to the rock.

The beast was finished first to make painting easier and mounted so that positioning of Arkhan could happen. The position of the rider had to be modified since now the beast was up in a more rearing / jumping upright position and mounting as originally posed would have made Arkhan appear too laid back in the saddle! A bit of cutting, grinding, and filing to both figures soon had him looking good! I also positioned the cape and found a new head more to my liking. The new head was actually just one of the unused optional heads that comes in the same set for the horse mounted skeletal knights, worked out well!

The “new” face of Arkhan the Black, well I guess soon to be “the Red”. At this stage I was working on refitting him to the saddle based on the beasts new pose.

I love the plate armor on Arkhan and while black/metal may have looked good I was using bits of red through out the units to tie them together and I thought “hey Red armor” yep full red armor, the only one, signifying his importance in the warband. I did use black armor trim and for his armored boots to give some contrast.

Arkhan the Black all painted up and now Arkhan the Red!

At this point things were going well and I felt good about the build and pushing the envelope a bit with my painting skills when I hit a snag. I had picked out some armor the kit gives you for the beast and choose some the matched Arkhans style. Without pre-fitting (mistake!) I primed and painted it. On trying to fit it on I found that it was designed to go on exactly opposite of what I thought and wanted it to be.

This is how it was designed to fit, looks terrible! Probably why on 99% of the pictures of finished models on the internet use the other armor option!

I thought that this looked well frankly, stupid and silly, the plates going up like that but oh well, I guess someone liked it . I used a bit of picture tack to reposition the armor as I wanted it (upside down) and to my relief found it would fit (with a bit of cutting).

Checking position I found the front bone had to be trimmed to make it fit. I should have pre-fitted this before painting! I know better!

However, there was now a large gap in the front because of the mismatch caused by reversing the pieces. This was one of those times when a modeler needs to set the project down for a day or two and think it out. I was too mad at myself and the piece to do good work. After calming down for a day and thinking it out I came to the conclusion, I hated the armor installed as designed but hated the gap caused by installing upside down. Ok, out comes the plastic sheet, epoxy, and some greenstuff (kneadite). The extra few hours work get filed under “lesson learned, again!”

The gap was bloody awful! I thought about taking the cowards way out and just touch up the paint, most would never notice, but I would, forever!

I put the armor on using “picture tack” to temporally hold it in place and then a bit of glue up front to bond the two halves. I took a few pictures and a few measurements to insure it went back exactly where I wanted it. The measurements were also used to make sure that I had it right for the next step. I carefully removed the armor. The solution was to create a small triangle backup piece to fill the gap, bond the pieces together, and serve as a backing plate for the additional greenstuff bone horns and armor.

Polystyrene plate cut to form base and bridge gap.

Reinforcing 2 part epoxy added (the grey stuff on the right)

This plastic “plate” was super glued in and given a thick backing of strong two part epoxy (JB-Kwick Weld) for added strength. A bit of work with the greenstuff and my modeling tools and I had a very acceptable fix!

Bone and armor plate sculpted to taste!

A bit of paint and I can just hear people saying “wait my kit didn’t come with that option?” Putting it back on the model was a bit tough as it had to be stretched to near breaking. That’s why I used the two-part epoxy as superglue is brittle and would have given way.

In place and looking much better. I really love it now as it looks very form fitted and flows down the beast sides

I love how the armor seems to be custom fitted over the beast shoulders.

I was unsure of what I wanted the armor to look like paint wise and almost went with the same blood red color as on Arkhan. Once again not wanting to draw attention away from Arkhan I went with a different look but still in keeping with the style. I really like how it came out but don’t ask me how I did it…. The model is coated with a combination of Testor’s clear lacquer coatings ranging from semi-dull to near gloss, applied with and airbrush at around 15-20 PSI. Over the years I have started using different blends of clear coats to enhance the look of figures and I think it works well here to deepen the colors.

Gems in the sword and on his armor were done as Jade and emeralds.

I have never been good at doing precious stones or gems, mostly because there are few opportunities when painting 1812 French or WWII Panzer Grenadiers but I tried to improve my game while doing the un-dead as several figures have them. There are other effects on the figure that challenged me with new looks like the ghostly spectral force cape and the flowing magical whatever it is off the gem… yep certainly none of that on a Panzer Grenadier! Fun none the less!

Frankly I almost took the cowards way out and switched out the “magical power staff?” for a sword but I’m glad I did not as it ads height and looks good with the figure. It also helps to create the sense of movement I wanted.

Well If you made it this far thanks for reading it and I hope you enjoyed it I know I enjoyed the project immensely. I will leave you with a few gallery pictures and some comments. There should be some more of the Un-Dead up soon as I have paint most of it already, painting is fun, writing is too, just not as much. This website in the beginning was about reaching to others in the hobby, but over time I have come to realize it is more for me, a  diary of “My Journey in the World of Wargaming”

The Secret Warband episode #2

Things have been quite busy around the house and as usual lots of projects and things happening. Getting tons done but “posting” is way down on the list! Having put a few chores out of the way along with quite a few commission “build and paint” job’s I finally have a few moments to pound out an update.

The SAGA Age of Magic Undead army has been my main focus as far as figures for myself and the subject of the previous post The Secret is out, an UnDead Warband where I promised to post up the waband as I completed various units.

There are several more boxes and “sprues” that didn’t make it into the original picture. They are just so cool!

After purchasing nearly “all the skeletons in the world” the first units were built from the Warlord Games skeletons produced for their fantasy game “Warlords of Erehwon”. Starting with these was a deliberate choice based on their look and style. These were the skeletons that I remembered from my youth and the movie “Jason and the Argonauts”. They were also fairly simple allowing me to develop a painting and basing style for my army before tackling more intricate and complicated figures. Those readers who are paying attention might notice that in the picture there are not only a box of 30 of these figures but directly below it another of 90 more figures! WTF? Bill you said a SAGA warband? That’s way more figures than you need! Yep well I just don’t know when to stop in fact there are about 200+ figures in the collection but I plan to have lots of force options as well as use this army for other games where a larger figure count is needed. (Thanks for the commission work gents, see what it bought me!)

I’ve painted all 30 from the first box as well as completed my warlord and started on my “Sacred Ground” terrain piece that will appear in future post. I may use them as warriors or perhaps “mindless” in SAGA will see. For now, here’s the 30 “skeletons”

I have about 100 more of these to build and paint! It goes fairly quickly and you can see with some simple cutting, bending, and swapping bits and pieces around no two are alike!

They are a bit fiddly during assembly and a bit delicate in handling but in my opinion some of the nicest and most fun to build “skeletons” out there! Add that to the fairly inexpensive cost of around $25 for 30 of them makes it even better.

As I said before “posing” them was just a hoot and allowed me to capture those cool shots I remember from the movies. Rey Harryhausen was a master at this posing or positioning in his stop animation work and I tried to recreate some of those looks! These two and the ones in the “gallery” below are a few of my favorites so far.

I remember as a lad seeing the skeletons clawing their way out of the ground and thinking that was the coolest! This pose I created is a tribute to that memory!

Building the dirt up around the “hole” helps the impression. This was originally a standing figure.

Painting was done by starting with a white primer base using ACLAD II primer in my air brush and then going with GW/Citadel paints which is a change for me as I mostly go with Vallejo paints. After the primer comes a wash of Citadel AGRAX Earthshade (its a brown wash) straight out of the bottle, then a heavy dry brush (not too dry) of Citadel USHANTI BONE, and a finial highlighting of Vallejo OFF WHITE. I did not age these guys weapons/shields down much as I liked the brighter look off setting the bones and figured “hey they were magically restored” Most of the “coming out of the ground” poses where custom made just using parts with a little cutting and bending. Enjoy, I did!

 

In “Jason and the Argonauts” the Skeletons fought and moved in a way that truly made them look like they were undead and not as coordinated as the living. This was partially due to the stop-motion process but also deliberate by Harryhausen to give them a character unlike the living.

Ends of the arms and legs are ball socket-ed to allow easy posing and the other joints can be easily bent with a slight cut. Heads are the same way.

NEXT Post UP, a Warrior unit using Mantic Games Figures!